I have a gecko in my room, he’s almost like a little pet hanging around the walls. Geckos are a very common occurrence in South African households. At first I thought the little guy was pretty cool (maybe I should name him, any suggestions?) but it is a bit creepy to wake up in the middle of the night and see a little black crawling thing running around the ceiling and walls. The little guy is pretty cute though.
I also spent yesterday with my friend Sue, riding the minibus taxis all over town. The international students take the taxis (where the majority of the middle and upper class of society will not) together and attract a lot of attention. As a white person on them I attract a good deal of attention, but it was really fun to go with Sue because she speaks Zulu and call explain what everyone is saying (or know when someone is threatening us.) I sat in wonder at lunch as Sue explained why she doesn’t want a traditional African 21st birthday. Living in a township in Durban, Sue has traditional African heritage and her mom wants her to honor that with a big party on her 21st. A party sounds pretty good, except that it would include some traditions that Sue is uncomfortable with. First they test for virginity and when the girl is found to be a virgin, they slaughter a cow and dress her in another cow’s hide (actually the white bit between the skin and the muscle). The hide makes sure the girl bares her breasts (another highly African tradition, maybe I'll write to you about national cleavage day soon...), and she is paraded around (the pride of her parents) for family and friends to pin money to her hat. At the ceremony the girl is officially allowed to date (meaning in current times the girl surprises her parents with who she has been dating by taking them to his house). The party follows as the girl shows up at the guy’s house and his family greets her with an umbrella of money pinned on it to show their acceptance. The ensuing party is loud, loud, loud, and jovial…and LONG! My friend is much more interested in her chosen Christian religion than the traditional African religions and thus ceremonies tied to them, but embracing her heritage is also important so she is torn about her own 21st birthday. Recalling my own birthday, I do wish I had had a bit more cultural tradition (as the 21st get drunk scenario does not appeal to me), but glad it was not the source of so much anxiety. Anyhow, I’m going to try to make it to Umlazi (a township) where Sue lives, with her in a couple of weeks. Something to look forward to.
Oooh and I can finally do a couple of the clicks used in Zulu and Xhosa, hooray! Not an easy feat, let me tell you!

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